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The e*thirteen LG1 Race crank is the lightest DH specific crank out there, even 60g lighter than the LG1+ cranks. These aren’t simply beefier XC cranks; they are made specifically to handle the rigors of DH racing. They were engineered to be lighter, stiffer, stronger, and more reliable than other leading DH cranks. The LG1 Race cranks feature a 30mm spindle for an extremely stiff and reliable crankset. The P3 Connect interface does away with splined spindles which are sometimes known to strip or deform rendering your crank inoperable. And if you thought external bearing bottom brackets were easy to install, the LG1 Race also features e*thirteen’s Adaptive Preload System (APS) for perhaps the easiest installation of any crank out there eliminating the use of wave washers and spindle spacers. Simply install the bottom bracket and crank (remember to use a torque wrench) and then hand tighten the APS adjuster and you’re ready to hit the trail!
LG1 Race cranks come with the following in the box for easy install:
All e*13 cranks use a 104mm BCD and are compatible with 8, 9, and 10 speed chainrings. E*13 cranks use a 30mm spindle, however they have not adopted the complete BB30 standard. BB30 refers to an entire standard, based around more than just spindle diameter. E*13 cranks will not just drop into a BB30 frame, but they do make adapter cups to fit BB30 frames. They use their own bottom brackets which are specific for their cranks.
Bottom brackets are sold separately in order to fit a variety of frames. Not sure what BB you need? Check e*thirteen's tech info for BB standard information here (PDF).
Reviewed by 1 customer
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Comments about e.thirteen E.13 LG1R Crank:
First off these things were impossible to install. It took me the better part of 1.5 hours and I have been wrenching for 10 years. Maybe it was just for my application but I was trying to install them on a 2013 Giant Glory with an 83 mm BB. I had to try 2 different chain guides (MRP and E13) and low and behold none of them fit! In order to get the pulley lined up with the chainring I needed to space out the guide but the BB would crash into the guide not allowing me to thread the BB completely into the frame. I had to try 3 different chainring manufacturers both inboard and outboard on the crank before I finally found a configuration that worked. It was a Race Face Chainring with an E13 guide and some backwoods spacer work on the guide pulley and track. Why the heck would you make a bottom bracket with an outboard bearing that does not fit the hole drilled in 99% of the chain guides on the market?
Then once you have the chain line lined up and working you have to mess around with a spacer and wave washer kit to get the correct bearing preload. That involves installing and removing the crank arm at least twice to get it right. Oh...and this kit was sold seperately and it wasn't cheap for what was included in it.
FINALLY...I raced this crank for less than a season...I am talking about 4 races maybe 5 and the crank started creaking. So...I pulled it apart thinking it was the BB threads and wouldn't you know the drive side bearing fell out of the BB in pieces! I am talking balls falling out of the cage. THis same exact thing happened to my team mate after 6 races.
I have never had such a negative experience with a crank in the past 15 years of me riding. I sold a set of carbon XO DH cranks for these and it was the biggest mistake of my life. I now have to try and find a replacement set of DH cranks to race next season because these things were duds. The Truvativ Decendants are a WAAAAAAY better option than this. E13...The E should stand for Epic Fail.